Method of making shoes having a wrapper strip



May 6, 1952 JONAS 2,596,029

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES HAVING A WRAPPER STRIP Filed Oct. 8, 1945Patented May 6, 1952 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES HAVING A WRAPPER STRIPGilbert F. Jonas, St. Louis, Mo., assignor to Boyd- Welsh, Inc., St.Louis, Mo., a corporation of Missouri Application October 8, 1945 SerialNo. 621,115

3 Claims. 1

The present invention relates generally to the shoe making art, and moreparticularly to a novel method for making so-called platform type shoes.

It is an object of the invention to provide an attractive, lightweight,soft, flexible shoe with no unnecessary bulk which may include aplatform, if desired, and which is made employing conventional processesand machinery.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a shoe of theforegoing type made on a last.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a shoe of theforegoing type which may have box toes and counters, or which may bemade with open heels and open toes.

In the drawings:

Fig. l is a perspective view of the shoe in an early stage ofmanufacture;

Fig. 2 is a transverse section on the line 22 of Fi 1;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 in a subsequent stage of manufacture;

Fig. 4 is a transverse section on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a perspective View similar to Fig. 1 in an additional stage ofmanufacture, the shoe being of a different type;

Fig. 6 is a transverse section on the line 6-5 of Fig. 5.;

Fig. 7 is an upturned perspective view of a shoe showing the wrappingoperation of the wrapper strip;

Fig. 8 is a transverse section on the line 88 of Fig. 7

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 7 in a subsequent stage of manufacturewith the turnover of the wrapper strip completed;

Fig. 10 is a transverse section on the line Ill-l ll of Fig. 9; and

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary transverse section of the completed shoe.

In performing the shoe-making operation, an upper 15 is prepared bystandard methods. A last [6 is provided with a liner ll secured to itsbottom surface. The upper I6 has a margin [8 that extends outwardly fromthe lower edge of the last. The liner [1 has marginal portions l9extending outwardly from the last.

The lasting of the shoe may be performed mechanically by the use of anyof the three common stitch-down methods; that is, it can be cementlasted, staple-lasted, or stitch-lasted. In any of the three operations,the margins l8 and 19 of the upper and liner, extending outwardly fromthe last, are joined. As shown in Fig. 1, the lasting is by staples 29.

After the shoe has been lasted, a wrapper strip 23 of lightweightleather or fabric is sewed at 24 completely around the lasted upperadjacent the lower edge of the last. It overlies the margin 2 18 of theupper. It will be seen that this wrapper strip is put on in such a waythat the stitched edge protrudes upwardly. The unfinished face of thewrapper strip is toward the outside of the shoe, the finished face beingnext to the upper.

This piece of material can be put on either by a welt or turn-inseameror by a stitch-down sole attaching machine. It is also possible toattach it by means of a stitch-down laster, the wrapper strip being puton at the same time the shoe is lasted, in which case staple lastingwould not be used.

The shoe at this stage of the manufacture includes the upper, the liner,and the wrapper strip.

After the wrapper strip is fastened, the surplus margins of the upperand liners are trimmed even with the sewed edge of the wrapper strip, asshown in Figs. 5 and 6. The left sides of Figs. 5 and 6 show thetrimming completed, and the right sides show it just prior to thetrimming. This operation can be performed by a turn, welt, orstitch-down trimmer, or can be done manually. This operation is the samewhether the shoe be one with openings at its toe or heel, as previouslyillustrated, or one with such parts closed as in Figs. 5 and 6.

If a platform is desired on a shoe, the platform material 21, previouslycut to shape, can be cemented onto the liner at this point in theprocess. After the platform is in position, the strip is wrapped aroundan edge thereof, as shown in Figs. 7 and .8. It conceals not only theedge of the platform but also the edge of the upper and of the liner. Ifan imitation Platform is desired, the platform material 21 is omitted,and the wrapper strip is wrapped around the edges of the upper and theliner only. The thickness of the wrapper strip edge, the upper edge andthe liner edge will give the shoe the appearance of having a lightplatform.

The shoe completed to this point with the wrapper strip wrapped over isshown in Fig. 9, with a cross section thereof in Fig. 10. Thereafter,the shank is put in place. and an outsole is attached by sewing orcementing. The heel may then be attached and the last removed. Theoutsole is shown in dotted lines at 3111 in Fig. 10, and is also shownin Fig. 11.

While the shoe illustrated is one with an open toe and an open heel, itwill be equally evident that closed toes and heels may be provided bythe use of this method. Also, box toes and counters may be used. Whenused, they will be supplied between the upper and its lining prior tothe initial stitchdown operation illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. Suchcounters and box toes are shown at 32 and 33 in Fig. 5, the lining partof the upper being shown at L in Fig. 6.

The closed heels. can be sewed completely 3 around the heel seat, or thewrapper strip can stop ahead of the heel seat and the heel be bedlastedin the conventional manner.

It will be seen that the shoe has all the advantages of bothconventionally lasted shoes and of platform shoes and that it does notrequire the use of special machinery. It provides a shoe of the platformtype that may be supplied with box toes and counters. It is light inweight, soft and flexible, with no unnecessary bulk. Where the platformis used, the foot rests directly upon a cushion of material with nothingbut the liner between the foot and the platform.

What is claimed is: 1. A method of making shoes including th steps ofproviding an upper with a body portion and with marginal lasting edgesextending beyond the limits of the body portion, providing a last with aliner on its bottom surface, the liner having marginal edges extendingbeyond the bottom of the last, applying the upper over the last,overlaying the marginal lasting edge of the upper and the marginal edgeof the liner one over he other, securing the said marginal edgestogether and lasting the upper on the last, applying a wrapper strip tothe shoe and attaching the same to the shoe adjacent the intersection ofthe upper and the liner, removing the surplus marginal edges of theelements, turning the wrapper strip over the bottom of the shoe,securing the same in position over the bottom of the shoe, and applyingan outsole over the inturned margin of the wrapper strip and the bottomof the shoe, and thereafter withdrawing the last.

2. A method of manufacturing a shoe including the steps of providing alast with a piece of lining material on the bottom surface thereofhaving margins extending beyond the lateral limits of the last, applyingover the last and upper having lower marginal edges, overlaying themarginal edges of the upper on the marginal edges of the liner one overthe other, attaching the overlying edges and lasting the upper over thelast, attaching one edge of a wrapper strip to the upper adjacent theintersection of the upper and the liner with the remaining part of thestrip projecting upwardly, removing any excess of the marginal edges,wrapping said remaining part of the strip downwardly so that itsprojecting edge may turn in over the bottom of the shoe, securing saiddownturned edge in the position aforesaid, and attaching an outsole tothe shoe.

3. A method of manufacturing a shoe including the steps of providing alast having a sock liner temporarily attached adjacent the bottomsurface thereof, the edge of said liner extending beyond the limits ofthe last, providing an upper having a body portion and a lower marginalportion extending outwardly therefrom, applying the upper over the lastso that the marginal portion of the upper is superimposed on top of theportion of the liner extending beyond the last, fastening the marginalportion and the liner together adjacent the bottom edge of the last withstaples, providing a wrapper strip having an upwardly extending portionand an outwardly extending portion, positioning the wrapper strip withthe outwardly extending portion thereof on top of the marginal portion,and stitching through the wrapper strip, the marginal portion of theupper, and the sock liner outside of the line of staples.

GILBERT F. JONAS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 7 1,348,136 Dunbar July 27, 19201,764,105 Jung June 17, 1930 1,952,587 De Stefan Mar. 27, 1934 1,957,216La Chapelle May 1, 1934 2,032,655 Finberg et al. Mar. 3, 193 2,062,530Schmidt Dec. 1, 1936 2,063,633 Schulz Dec. 8, 1936 2,329,725 Mondl Sept.21,1943 2,354,797 Cocozella Aug. 1, 19 4 2,446,286 Kamborian Aug. 3,1948

